Plus-Size Patternmaking for Womenswear by Gabby Brown, Leila Kelleher

An essential guide to patternmaking for plus-size fashion, and the specialized skills, shapes, and techniques required to achieve a great fit and make beautiful clothing that truly understands plus-size bodies.

Featuring all the major block types for contemporary apparel – from fitted bodices to T-shirts, sleeve variations to swimwear – and packed with clear illustrations and step-by-step guidance, Brown and Kelleher guide you through:

- drafting a complete set of plus-size blocks suitable for use with models and clients
- industry plus-size fit forms
- adapting existing designs for plus sizes
- practical skills for respectful measuring, fitting, and working with larger bodies.

Covering every step of the pattern-drafting process, from developing a size chart, to considering mobility and wearing ease, to adapting smaller dress forms for use with plus-sizes, Plus-Size Patternmaking for Womenswear is an essential textbook for all modern fashion and apparel students.

Online resources available for download:
- Instructor resources, including class presentation slides
- Sample size charts, blank size chart templates, and ease chart
- Instructions for calculating required measurements for block drafting section
- Standard measurements used in block drafting
- A collection of plus size croquis in different sizes and poses

Table of Contents
Foreword by Dr. Ben Barry, Dean of Fashion, Parsons School of Design, New York, USA

Part 1: Introduction to the Principles of the Plus Size Experience
1. Understanding the Market
2. Analyzing Bodies
3. Patternmaking Concepts

Part 2: Introduction to Practical Applications
4. Size Charts & Taking Measurements
5. Adapting a Form: Techniques
6. Size Extensions: Best Practices
7. Adaptive Design
8. Running a Fitting

Part 3: Introduction to Blocks
9. Relaxed Woven Bodice
10. Fitted Woven Dress: Bodice & Skirt
11. Fitted Knit Tee Shirt
12. Knit Pullover Hoodie
13. Classic Woven Coat
14. Stretch Woven Trouser
15. Knit Leggings
16. Knit Underwear (Brief)
17. Swim: Maillot

Part 4: Further Understanding
18. Sleeves: Set-In, Raglan, & Grown On
19. Fit Variations: Heights & Figures

Conclusion

Appendices
Appendix 1. Sample Size Measurements & Ease Charts
Appendix 2. Calculation Techniques
Appendix 3. Croquis for Plus Size Bodies

Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Paperback, 416 pages

Published February 19th, 2026